Oh My Cabinets
February 24, 2026 · 7 min read

Cabinet Materials & Finishes Explained

Every cabinet estimate is full of terms the industry treats as obvious. Here's what each one means, how they compare, and where they belong.

Box materials

Plywood is the Miami default: ¾-inch, seven-ply, cabinet-grade. It holds screws well, stays flat, and shrugs off humidity. Particleboard is cheaper but is not appropriate for cabinet boxes in this climate.

MDF is used for interior door panels because it accepts paint without grain telegraph, but the boxes themselves should not be MDF.

Door finishes

Painted doors get a factory-applied conversion varnish over a solid substrate. Done well, this is the most repairable and longest-lasting finish for Miami — the color can be touched up without stripping the door.

Thermofoil is a heat-fused vinyl skin over MDF. It's inexpensive and looks smooth but can delaminate near heat sources and shows any impact damage permanently. We only use it on interior utility cabinets.

Wood veneer over plywood is used when the client wants real grain. Rift-cut white oak and quartered walnut are the two we specify most often in Miami — they read as calm and modern rather than busy.

High-gloss lacquer and PET foil finishes both work but need to be spec'd carefully: gloss shows every fingerprint, and PET is not repairable if it gets scratched.

Hardware

Hinges: Blum or Salice soft-close, adjustable in all three axes. Drawers: full-extension undermount, soft-close, rated for at least 100 lb. Anything less becomes a warranty problem within a couple of years.

Pulls and knobs: solid brass or 316 stainless in coastal properties. Zinc alloy hardware pits fast anywhere within a mile of the ocean.

Planning a project?

Free in-home measure across Miami-Dade and Broward.

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